Surf photographer captures thrilling waves at 2024 Paris Olympics, highlights oceanic power and beauty

JOURNALIST’S NOTES

INTERVIEW SUBJECT

Ben Thouard is a French photographer specializing in surf, ocean, and water sports photography. By capturing the gigantic 20-meter waves in Tahiti, he conveys the beauty of nature and the bravery of surfers seeking to conquer the ocean. Positioned between fine art and sports photography, Ben Thouard’s images reflect the agility and strength present in both his subjects and their aquatic environment. At 38, the photographer excelled at the Paris 2024 Olympic Games in Tahiti, capturing unique images from the water, as he was the only one accredited to document from within the waves. He has won several international awards and has published two remarkable books: Surfaces in 2018 and Turbulences in 2021.

BACKGROUND INFORMATION

Teahupo’o is a small, quiet fishing village on the island of Tahiti, French Polynesia. Nestled in the southwest corner of Tahiti’s smallest dormant volcano, Tahiti Iti, Teahupo’o is known as “The End of the Road” because it literally marks the end. Once you cross the bridge over the river, the roads turn to dirt, and only foot traffic is possible. The people who live there rely on and revere the Pacific Ocean. For thousands of years, fresh water has flowed from the mountains standing proudly behind Teahupo’o. When the river meets the ocean, it erodes the surrounding coral reef, and over time, this has created the Hava’e Pass. It is within this reef pass that the famous and feared wave forms.
During the southern hemisphere’s winter, wave trains leave the Southern Ocean and head north. Building momentum and whipped into a frenzy by strong winds, these swells do not stop until they hit land or, in Teahupo’o’s case, the shallow reef shelf that rises rapidly from a deep seafloor at the Hava’e Pass. This creates some of the most extreme waves in the world. Teahupo’o is widely regarded as one of the most perfect and powerful waves on the planet, and ultimately one of the best for surfing.

TAHITI, France — At eight years old, I fell in love with surfing. My older brothers introduced me to the sport and from that moment forward, I was hooked. I vividly remember my first surfing lesson. When I stood up on the board and rode a wave, I felt an incredible thrill that stayed with me all these years.

As a teenager, I came across my father’s old camera and felt immediately drawn to it. With a few rolls of black and white film, I began capturing daily life—portraits, lifestyle photos, and my friends surfing. Unwilling to stay on the shore, I craved the thrill of shooting from the water. So, I plunged into the ocean with my camera for the first time, still using film. The first roll of photos I took from the water delivered results nothing short of amazing.

Related: Blind Spanish surfer conquers world championships, sets sights on 2028 title.

From a sailboat in France to surf photography in Tahiti: man’s journey through the waves

I always felt a deep connection to the sea. Growing up in the southeast of France, my father owned a sailboat. We spent our summer vacations aboard, immersing ourselves in the vast ocean. Gradually, I discovered photography and learned how to operate a camera. As a child, I frequently repaired my surfboards and became skilled with fiberglass and resin. This led me to create my first waterproof housing for the camera.

Though not as refined as a store-bought model, it became my gateway to underwater photography. As a surf photographer, I captured images from the water rather than the shore. The initial experience of placing my film camera underwater thrilled me. When I moved to Paris to attend photography school, I missed the ocean’s embrace and decided to leave.

While working for a windsurfing magazine in France, I tapped into connections I made in Hawaii to advance my career. At 19 years old, I moved to Maui without knowing where I would spend my first night. With no budget, I constructed a water-dwelling and spent my days photographing windsurfing in Ho’okipa from the water. [Ho’okipa is a beach on the north shore of Maui, Hawaii.]

I enjoyed constantly interacting with the waves. Since surfing occurs in the water, photographing it from that perspective naturally appealed to me. This approach provides people with a more immersive view of the waves. While I enjoyed photographing windsurfing, my love for traditional surfing proved even stronger. Soon, I found myself taking pictures while surfing at Jaws and other spots on the island. Finally, in 2008, I relocated to Tahiti, where I dedicated myself entirely to photographing surfing. I fell in love with Tahiti and have called it home ever since.

Surf photographer finds inspiration in Teahupo’o’s mesmerizing beauty

In 2013, I captured an underwater photograph of Landon McNamara titled “The Silver Surfer.” This photograph, unexpectedly, became a cover feature in numerous magazines and marked a pivotal moment in my career.

The experience provided the motivation for me to begin underwater photography, concentrating specifically on surfers and waves. In the village of Teahupo’o [a village on the southeastern coast of Tahiti in French Polynesia] I discovered that the extraordinary underwater clarity offered stunning imagery. I witnessed breathtaking views including consistent waves and impressive tubes. This mesmerizing location seemed ideal for underwater photography.

I found endless opportunities to capture the ocean’s surface with my camera. My friend, professional windsurfer named Baptiste Gossein, invited me on a photographic expedition. I spent a month in Teahupo’o with him and instantly fell in love with the place. The atmosphere, lifestyle, culture, light, and waves enchanted me.

Each wave broke on the edge of the black sand beach, creating a magnificent play of colors. At sunrise, the cliff in the background cast a dark appearance over the scene. As the first rays of sunlight touched the cliff, they illuminated the water’s edge, creating a striking contrast that resembles glass or lace.

Immersed in Tahiti: photographer captures the majestic waves

In Tahiti, the atmosphere seemingly changes throughout the day and it captivated me from the very start. Everything about it appealed to me. I loved the movement of the water, the turbulence, the reef, and the fish. Inspired by the beauty of this extraordinary place, I began my journey of capturing the underwater world of surfing.

Six years after I moved to Tahiti, my work evolved. Surf photography became my job, while wave photography grew into a personal passion, a reverie. I aimed to break free from the constraints of press and brand commissions and instead communicate my attraction to the ocean through timeless images. Unlike surf photos, which can quickly become dated by the surfer’s outfit and board, a striking photograph of a wave captivates viewers for decades.

I dedicated my time to photographing waves in different conditions, capturing single, still images that are aesthetic, graphic, or simply beautiful. These images convey the power of the ocean: a majestic shape, an explosion, or a vortex that appears underwater as the wave breaks. Revealing nature’s beauty and its often-terrifying force feels fabulous. In the waves, I experience emotion and, with big waves, a bit of fear. Yet, being under the waves of Teahupo’o offers an extraordinary spectacle that amazes me.

I first photographed the incredible surfers Raimana van Bastolaer and Laird Hamilton on a day when the swell rapidly grew. The waves started at five feet when I jumped into the water, gradually increasing to six or eight feet. Then, a sudden 10-foot-plus wave crashed in. I dove under it and ended up in the lagoon above the reef, where I lost my fins and aquatic housing. Despite losing my gear, I emerged unscathed and captured pictures that were out of this world.

Photographer documents surfers’ triumph over Teahupo’o’s dangerous waves, winning top honors

Once, we dove underwater with Australian surfer Adrian Buchan beneath a famous Teahupo’o wave. This wave is widely regarded as the most dangerous in the world due to its immense size, power, and the razor-sharp coral reef over which it breaks. Unlike waves that break over sandy shores, Teahupo’o’s waves roll over a coral reef several hundred meters offshore. This results in exceptional clarity without sand or particles.

As the wave crashed, Adrian chose to go through it, sliding over the edge. I set up my camera to photograph him through the tube and then catch the wave as it crashed. Shockingly, it produced an unusual shot of Adrian standing on his board, but underwater. This remarkable image won top honors in the Red Bull Illume Image Quest 2019.

Another day, the powerful swell forced surfers to be towed by a jet ski. Tons of water crashed over the reef. Despite these daunting conditions, Tahitian surfer Matahi Drollet used his strength to surf, barely overcoming the formidable wave. I captured the image from a boat, as close as possible. However, I must acknowledge that the success of this photo owes a great deal to the boat captain and local fishermen, who skillfully read Teahupo’o’s wave.

Surf Photographer risks life for perfect wave shots

I surf as much as possible and take photos several times a week. When conditions are good, I spend three hours in the water in the morning and another three in the afternoon, swimming in the same spot and waiting with my camera. As soon as a series of big waves rolls in, I sprint either to escape the wave or to position myself perfectly to capture the action before diving.

I shoot manually, with everything strapped to my arm like a surfer’s leash. I swim, position myself, frame, and focus, striving not to miss the shot when the surfer dives into the wave. My goal is to stay at the center of the action without getting caught in the wave, always having an escape route.

Teahupo’o is known for the most powerful waves in the world and carries significant risks. The wave breaks in shallow water over a reef. When caught by the wave, surfers are left with only a few inches of water between the surface and the reef. When the waves are too big, navigating through them becomes impossible. I have been thrown onto the reef multiple times, feeling as if a floor of razor blades pressed against me. The wave can tear your fins or slam your camera into your face. Swimming amid such turbulence always carries a risk.

As AFP’s sole surf photographer, man captures Tahiti’s waves at Paris 2024 Olympics

At the Paris 2024 Olympics, I played a pivotal role on the island of Tahiti, where athletes tackled the most challenging waves. As the only Agence France Presse (AFP) accredited photographer working from the water, I covered competitions in a corner of the reef I knew intimately. Hosting the event in Teahupo’o felt magical.

Following a routine, I studied the forecast to decide when and where to photograph, based on the swell, wind, and light. During the Olympics, I synchronized with the competition schedule. I prepared for the 6:00 a.m. meeting, entered the water by 6:30 a.m., and remained until 4:30 p.m. This meant I spent 10 hours in the water with only two breaks a day, primarily freediving without a tank. The experience exhausted but exhilarated me, driven by adrenaline.

Closely, I monitored my diet and hydration, knowing that staying hydrated in the water can be challenging. I focused on the light and its fascinating effects to capture the beauty of the underwater landscape. I also aimed to highlight the intensity and power athletes needed to surf one of the heaviest waves in the world. Each time a surfer took a wave, they generated unique power and energy. To navigate the intense and violent turbulence, they required almost superhuman strength.

Photographer records the power of surfing, drawing inspiration from the ever-changing ocean

Being in the tube with the surfer at the right time requires precise positioning and an understanding of how the surfer takes the wave. Some surfers pass within 30 centimeters of my camera, forcing me to find my place in these circumstances. The amazing thing is that no one sees it from the outside. You must swim under the wave to witness the unique wonder of how the surfer battles the rough water. Aiming to capture that energy with my lens, I strive to merge with it all.

I will never forget when Kauli Vaast, a local surfer, won the final. I watched Kauli as a kid, saw him surf at Teahupo’o for the first time, observed his improvement, and tracked his career advancements. Seeing him qualify for the Olympics and then win the event amazed me. The whole crowd went wild, celebrating his gold medal.

Through my vision, I portray the ocean and showcase its power. I capture all that intensity and movement to transmit my sensations and create vivid images. At the same time, I marvel at what I see. The ocean constantly moves and changes, which excites me. In my dream photo, I embrace mental freedom and draw inspiration from what I see, without a fixed idea of what to capture.

I focus on the interaction between water and light, particularly beneath the surface. I stay inspired and open to the unfolding scenes, letting the interplay of light and water guide me. Instead of aiming for a specific destination photo, I let the moment lead me.