Transformative teaching: Educator embraces unique challenges at Indigenous school in Tucumán mountains
The bell rings, marking the start of a new day. The children enter the classrooms as I stand under the sun’s rays, breathing in the fresh smell of green grass. The clouds descend, breaking into a mist that caresses the mountain slopes. This place, these people, and this way of life have forever changed me.
- 4 months ago
July 17, 2024
TUCUMÁN, Argentina — After 29 years of teaching, I needed a change, and in 2023, something magical happened. I received a call for a headmistress position at a small school serving children from vulnerable economic backgrounds. Nestled in a little village 6,561 feet up the Andes Mountains, the school was difficult to access. If I took the position, I needed to stay there for 15 continuous days at a time.
When I heard the children’s stories and learned about the school’s mission, it deeply moved me. I decided to apply for the job. With my family’s support, I embarked on a new journey that involved six miles in a van, a frozen river, riding horseback, an ancestral ceremony, and a profound connection with the earth. The decision to teach at La Escuela Multinivel Anfama (The Multilevel School of Anfama) profoundly changed my life.
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Up a mountain path by van and horseback
Doubts swirled through my mind when I accepted the headmistress position at the Multilevel School of Anfama. I worried about being away from my 10-year-old daughter. When the school selected me out of 39 applicants, the unconditional support of my husband and children allowed me to pursue my dream.
When I heard the joyful news, emotion poured out of me. Deep down, I knew Anfama was the right place for me. With tears in my eyes and a bag in hand, I said goodbye to my family and joined the team for the six-hour climb up a steep mountain path. We loaded the food and supplies and set off.
As we made our way up the trail, my heart fluttered. I felt a deep need to see and experience this side of teaching firsthand. I knew this special opportunity would present a new reality and open doors to another world. At 54 years old, nearing the end of my career, I set my sights on retirement at 57. This was my last chance; if I didn’t do it now, I never would.
As the van climbed, we stopped to move large stones blocking our path. Loaded up with supplies, the van rumbled against the rocks while I stood there, hypnotized by the landscape. The cold air filled my lungs with a pure and invigorating energy. The wind beat against me, and the sun bathed my skin in warmth. Some parts of the road were so bad, we had to get out of the van and continue on horseback.
The clouds covered the ground as the children began to wave and welcome me
At one point we crossed a frozen river, and I felt my ankles and feet numbing from the cold. Moving through dense vegetation, it felt like opening a door to a secret part of the universe. We stopped at narrow points on the path where stone monoliths called “pachetas” stood. We placed our hands on them, thanking Mother Earth for a safe journey up and down the mountain.
As the intensity of our travels hit me and I began to think, I can go on no longer, we arrived. The clouds hung so low they curled around the peaks, sometimes covering the ground itself. A breeze swept the clouds away, revealing the teachers who lived there and the children welcoming me. As I climbed off my horse, my doubts vanished in a heartbeat.
Walking toward the teachers and students, their smiles and waving hands made me feel proud and happy for this tremendous opportunity. They gave me the courage I lacked. It felt like they embraced my soul, and I fell in love with the place and its people. Deep down, I knew this was my place. The teaching staff consists of 14 individuals, including a kindergarten teacher, primary and secondary school teachers, and myself as the director of all levels.
A diverse group, the staff are able to meet the varied needs of children at different ages and stages of their education. To accommodate those who live far away, the school offers a hostel where the children can sleep. Many of them travel long hours on horseback over dangerous trails. During the cold and rainy months, high temperatures make the journey even more challenging. Sometimes, I see the children arrive soaked, with muddy legs and heavy rain boots. It breaks my heart.
In the montains, every day is an opportunity for discovery
The Multilevel School of Anfama operates under a unique system. I needed to learn many new things. The multi-school, multi-grade classes mean children of different ages share the same spaces for their lessons. My favorite part, though, is the incredible surroundings. From above and along the road, endless mountains stretch out before you. Everything lays bathed in vibrant green.
The pure air smells of fresh grass, and after the rains, the atmosphere transforms into a magical and captivating scene. However, when it rains, everything grows dark. The insufficient solar panels often leave us without electricity for several days at a time. To send a message, we must walk a long way to find a signal. The nights can feel freezing, as the wind howls and knocks.
Despite these challenges, I find great pleasure in my work. A deep satisfaction comes from contributing to these children’s lives. I value their sacrifice the most. No matter the weather, they come smiling. Everything has a different value here. Every smile, new word, blooming flower, and sprout of the earth; every falling leaf, rainbow, dewdrop, and star filled night offer opportunities for discovery.
The children at the Multilevel School of Anfama descend from the Diaguita indigenous community and maintain a close bond to Pachamama. Every year on August 1, we gather for the ancestral celebration of Mother Earth. The first time I attended the ceremony offering thanksgiving to the land it left a lasting impression on me.
A transformative, indigenous ceremony honoring mother earth
We stood in a large circle around an alter with a small well beneath it. Holding hands and alternating men and women, a magical energy entwined with our bodies. The cacique or tribal chieftan, with the community’s help, placed stones in the well, symbolizing our gratitude to the earth. We added sugar, herbs, corn, and water. The cacique then moved among us, chanting and singing, anointing each person.
The ceremony included many people and their connection to the earth, gratitude, and respect felt palpable. The experience deeply moved me as every inch of my body resonated with a profound sense of spirit. When the ceremony ended, I felt forever imbued with love and respect for the land that gives us everything.
Tears welled in my eyes, thankful for the chance to know their culture from the inside and become one of them. My life with these children, the school, and the communion with the land has drastically changed how I live. Coming down from the mountain, I find myself wrapped in my family’s arms. For a week, I stay glued to my daughter. During our wonderful reunions, we share a constant exchange of our experiences.
The first time I came down, I cried the moment I saw my daughter through the van window. It had only been two weeks, but it felt like an eternity, and she seemed so much bigger. For many years, the concepts I heard and read about lifestyles like those of the indigenous people of Anfama remained abstract to me. I never saw or felt them closely. Now, these concepts become real and fill my heart and soul.
Morning rituals: Embracing a new way of life
Every day at the summit, amidst the vast mountain landscape, we raise the Whipala [the flag of the indigenous people of the Andes Mountains] alongside the Argentinean flag. As they flutter in the wind, we say a prayer together for the health of the community.
We say “cusilla” [protect me, help me] in the original Diaguita or Kakán language. In that moment, a unique sensation takes hold of me. My chest opens up and my heart beats strongly. I feel my skin tingle as I silently repeat “cusilla, cusilla.”
The bell rings, marking the start of a new day. The children enter the classrooms as I stand under the sun’s rays, breathing in the fresh smell of green grass. The clouds descend, breaking into a mist that caresses the mountain slopes. This place, these people, and this way of life have forever changed me.
